Star Stylist Law Roach on How His Hollywood Clients Inspired His Hervé Léger Design Collaboration

Star Stylist Law Roach on How His Hollywood Clients Inspired His Hervé Léger Design Collaboration thumbnail


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On Wednesday evening, Hollywood stylists Jason Rembert, Philippe Uter and Nicolas Bru were in the crowd at Citizen News in Hollywood to fete their colleague Law Roach‘s debut fashion designs. The Hollywood Reporter‘s Top Stylist of The Year in 2021 has teamed up with Parisian luxury label Herve Leger for a limited-edition resort collection due to land in October.

Roach, who counts Zendaya and Venus Williams, Bella Hadid (Priyanka Chopra, Jones, Kerry Washington, and Hunter Schafer) invited THR to the first photo shoot for the line.

Born in 1985, the Herve Leger brand made a name in the late ’80s and early ’90s with signature bandage dresses, as seen on the likes of Salma Hayek, Rihanna, Liz Hurley, Cindy Crawford, Lou Doillon and Kim Kardashian. The feminine form is flattered by the design’s crisscrossing bands made of a Spanx-like stretch fabric.

Herve Lger x Law Roach infuses new life into the label. Aughts style has been trending recently, and Herve Lger x Law Roach is a great addition. In 2018, the brand ushered in new creative director Christian Juul Nielsen, who had previous stints at Dior (with John Galliano and Raf Simons), Oscar de la Renta and Nina Ricci. It’s no surprise that Roach was the one who created brand buzz last August by dressing Haddish in a black mini dress with a puff-sleeve for a premiere. The Leger team contacted Roach immediately and the frock was gone.

The new 25-piece collection ($690 to $2,900) includes new riffs on bandage dresses, along with crop tops, catsuits, long and short skirts, and elbow gloves. You will find notable details like asymmetry, sheer panels and peek-a-boo cutouts. The palette includes black, camel and white as well as blush and lavender in solids or stripes.

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Law Roach with models behind the scenes at the Herve Leger resort 2023 show in Los Angeles, Calif. on Wednesday, June 15, 2022.
Courtesy of Herve Leger

While Roach’s glam crew prepared him for the collection’s first official shoot we spoke with the self-described “image architect” to find out what he had to share about his latest achievement.

You’ve designed costumes, but this is your first full-blown collection, right?

Yes. I have done a few things together with Zendaya [assisting her with two collaborative Tommy Hilfiger collections in 2019]., my partner-in style. This one is all me, which is very exciting. I want to prove that I can do it, and make something that women love to wear. Fingers crossed. I waited to find something that felt authentic and right with a brand that I trust and love.

Well, the styles look gorgeous and the fabric is so practically packable.

I love that you said “packable” because these dresses look amazing when you take them with you on vacation. It doesn’t matter how you pack it.

I just love women of all sizes and shapes and wanted to create a collection that was universally appealing.

You’ve talked about diving into the archives in 2017 during America’s Next Top Model but do you have any earlier memories or ‘wow’ moments with the brand?

Herve is a legend for so many years. Growing up, my friends and I wanted Louboutins and Herve dresses. It was a uniform that they could wear on their first dates or to celebrate their birthdays. The brand has been through some tough times. I want to go back to the beginning. My interest was sparked by my participation in America’s Next Top Model with Tyra banks. Tyra was the ultimate Herve girl when it came to the [early] shows. Her personality and her ‘thing’ on those catwalks is what attracted me. I banked that. It wasn’t like I thought, “Oh, I’m going do an Herve collection within five years.” It was there all along.

That’s when my inspiration began. I wanted to go back to that period of the brand in the ’90s. There are a couple of dresses that are heavily inspired by spring-summer ’97 — the bandage dresses with the silk charmeuse drape. The Herve stripe is an iconic design, so it is an obvious inspiration.

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Courtesy of BFA/Herve Leger

How many pieces did you design before you narrowed it to 25?

You know what? To be completely honest, I didn’t count. It was like magic when [Hervé Léger creative director Christian Juul Nielsen] and me got into a room together. Literally, his way of thinking and seeing things. It was a great collaboration. The best thing about the brand was that there were no rules. They didn’t say “We need this dress” or “We need four black dresses .’

.”

Christian said, “Do whatever you want, we’re here for you.” I thought that was amazing, because they kinda handed over the brand. They were there to support me, even when I was doubtful about whether something would sell. I am forever grateful to them for encouraging me.

I wanted to be respectful and pay homage both to the brand DNA, and to the original designer, and to the legacy they left. There is a lot of the bandage. Christian has also created other fabrics with his collections. We play with these. You’ll see it in the catsuit, the two-piece, and the long gown.

So how did you originally connect for the collaboration?

No disrespect, but Herve was not on my radar. I received an email with the Herve Leger lookbook. I opened it hesitantly. I was astonished. I tried on one of the dresses with a big floral-type sleeve and styled it. The dress was sold out. Herve reached out to me and said that she had styled the dress exactly how they wanted it to look on Tiffany, who was a size 8. This is a normal size for a woman. That made a big impact.

I put the dresses on Addison Rae as well as a few other clients. They said, “Wow, you posted it and people went to the site and bought it,” so that was my first experience understanding my influence. They reached out to me and asked if I would be interested in doing a capsule with the brand. Christian’s vast knowledge is amazing, so I said yes. I wanted to learn and grow as a designer or creative director.

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Law Roach with Hailee Steinfeld (L) and Herve Leger creative director Christian Juul Nielsen (R).
Courtesy of BFA/Herve Leger

It’s great when you find that synergy with another creative person. How did you come up with the palette? It’s beautiful.

Thank you. I wanted a story that felt light. There are some really strong pieces in black, but I believe every girl should have a little black gown. I wanted to make my own version of the little black dress. It will be available in October. I wanted to feel like all the girls went to Miami or Vegas for the holidays. I wanted to dress that girl. I love lavender and nude, and then black or white are my staples. I wanted strong neutrals mixed with a pop in pastel.

Did you have a mood board and other words you would use to describe the feeling?

I think the word is really just ‘womanhood.’ The feminine, feminine form is what I love. I love women who love to be women. Every girl has a girlfriend who doesn’t wear makeup when she goes out. My girl fantasy is that she is this. She wants to be done all the time. She wants the glamour, the hair, makeup, and jewels. She wants that dress. This is the girl I imagined in my head, and that’s why I designed these clothes. She’ll have three children and a career, but she’ll always be that girl. That is what I love.

Are you imagining your clients in certain pieces?

Yes, absolutely. Even though I no longer work with them, I always take something away from my clients. Zendaya must wear a dress. Kerry Washington. All the girls are included in the collection.

I wanted to make pieces that girls would love to wear over and again. I was inspired by the black dress my mother wore to a funeral, a wedding and a date. It was the ‘go get your dress out of my closet’ dress. That was a great idea. Clothing should have a purpose. Because of social media, we’ve reached a point where you can’t take photos in your clothes again once you’ve worn it. It’s unfair. I hope that one day someone’s daughter will wear the dress and it becomes a thing. That was what I was trying to achieve. I wanted people to love these clothes.

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